Perak's royal town, 50km north of Ipoh and about forty minutes by road, where the sultanate still keeps its seat. The Ubudiah Mosque is what most people come for: golden domes and striped minarets finished in 1917, standing on a rise above the Perak river. Istana Kenangan beside it is a 1926 palace built without a single nail, now the royal museum, and the Malay College and the clock tower fill out an easy half day on foot.