Ten minutes by ferry to a flat coral island whose village is the best preserved in Okinawa: red-tiled roofs, coral walls, white sand lanes raked every morning and a shisa on every ridge. Kondoi has the swimming; Kaiji has the star-shaped sand grains people hunt for on hands and knees. Rent a bicycle at the port. This is the most visited of the Yaeyama day trips and it deserves to be.