Several hundred metres of tunnels dug by hand into a hillside in Tomigusuku, where the Japanese naval command made its last stand in June 1945. The walls still carry grenade scars. Of the Battle of Okinawa sites, this is the one close enough to reach from central Naha in half an hour, rather than the full trip south to Itoman. Admission is 600 yen, not the 440 many guides still list.