Taipei is Taiwan's capital and the island's centre of gravity, a city of working temples and tea houses wedged between green hills, with a night market on what feels like every other block and Taipei 101 rising out of the middle of it. It is compact, safe and easy to cross on the MRT, which makes it one of the simplest Asian capitals to visit for the first time. Most trips run three to four days, and the hot springs at Beitou and the old streets of Jiufen are both under an hour away.
Taipei spent the 20th century turning from a Qing administrative town into one of Asia's most liveable capitals, and the layers are all still visible. Japanese-era civic buildings sit a few streets from Qing temples, and both sit in the shadow of the glass towers of Xinyi. The city is dense without being overwhelming: the MRT reaches almost everything, stations and street signs are in English, and you can cross town in twenty minutes.
Most of what you come for is outdoors or after dark. Longshan and Bao'an are working temples rather than monuments, with people stopping in before work to leave fruit and draw fortune blocks. The National Palace Museum holds the largest collection of Chinese imperial art anywhere in the world. Shilin, Raohe and Ningxia night markets are where the city eats, and Ximending is where it shops. Taipei 101, 508 metres tall and the tallest building in the world until 2010, has an observation deck near the top and a mall at its foot.
The hills start where the city stops. Elephant Mountain is a twenty-minute climb for the view of Taipei 101 that ends up on everyone's camera roll. Yangmingshan National Park sits inside the city limits, and the hot spring town of Beitou is on the MRT. Jiufen, the Pingxi railway line and the north coast are all comfortable day trips, which is why three or four days in Taipei has a way of turning into a week in northern Taiwan.