Bhedetar sits at about 1,420 metres on the ridge above Dharan, sixteen kilometres up a road that climbs out of the heat in half an hour. The draw is the change: mist, tea stalls, and a view back over the Terai that runs into India on a clear day. Charles Point, named after the Prince of Wales who stopped here in 1980, is the spot everyone photographs. Take a jacket, because it is genuinely cold.