Kotagede was the capital of the Mataram Sultanate before Yogyakarta existed, and the old town still has the lanes, Javanese-Dutch houses and royal cemetery to show for it. Since the 1930s it has also been the city's silver quarter, and workshops here take visitors through the hammering and filigree work. Come for the craft rather than the monuments: it is quieter and much smaller in scale than the Kraton.