Talako Tole is a working square rather than a monument: rows of unfired pots laid out to dry in the sun, wheels turning under the eaves, and kilns smoking at the edges. The Prajapati families here have thrown pots for generations and will let you sit at a wheel for a small fee. It is five minutes from Durbar Square and the one place in Bhaktapur where the old town is still earning a living rather than charging admission.