The white pillar at the Jalan Mangkubumi crossroads is the city's oldest landmark and its most photographed one. Built in 1755 and rebuilt in its present form in 1889, it stands on the invisible line the Sultans drew between Mount Merapi, the Kraton and the southern sea, so it carries the same cosmology as the palace without the ticket or the hour inside. Most people come after dark, when the column is lit.