Thirty minutes east, an Edo merchant town of black-tiled storehouses along the Ono canal, with willows on the banks and flat boats running under the bridges. It was home to Ino Tadataka, who walked the entire coast of Japan to make the first accurate map of it, and his house and museum are here. Note that Sawara stopped being a city in 2006: maps and timetables say Katori.