Thirty minutes north by train and, for a lot of visitors, the better half of the trip. Shirogane Blue Pond holds its cobalt colour from aluminium in the water, with dead larch trunks still standing in it. Shirahige Falls feeds the same stream, Shikisai-no-oka runs flower terraces up the hills, and Patchwork Road links the lone trees that appear on Japanese calendars. A rental car or a bicycle beats the bus timetable.