An onsen town on the far side of Mount Yufu, 50 minutes and about 1,100 yen away by bus, built around a 1.5 km lane of craft shops, galleries and cafes that ends at Lake Kinrin, where hot springs feed the water and mist rises off it on cold mornings. Where Beppu is a working hot spring city, Yufuin is the polished version, and the contrast is the reason to go.